Bordeaux 2011

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Vintage Report
Clos Cantenac 2011
Ets J-P Moueix 2011

It is becoming clear that truly poor vintages in Bordeaux are a thing of the past. All sorts of techniques and sorcery can be put to work to mitigate pretty well any climate-induced problem, brought about by weather that is too wet or too dry, too hot or too cold or even a combination of adverse weather conditions, which brings us neatly to 2011. When we began our tastings in April, we knew no more than what the weather reports had told us, and this had not filled us with confidence. Hot, dry and then cool and wet can presage all sorts of undesirable flavours in red wine, so we set out with low expectations and nervous palates.

Our first day was dedicated to the First Growths and Super Seconds of the Médoc, where we would expect to taste some of the best wines, but even so we were astounded by the quality of the wines we tasted. The tannins were sweet and ripe, yet so balanced that we found ourselves having to make a mental note to comment on them in our tasting notes. Acidity was lively but not too high and the fruit flavours were vibrant and fresh. Our biggest complaint was that we had been spoiled in 2009 and 2010, when the tasting notes virtually wrote themselves, whilst in 2011 we had to concentrate rather harder to isolate the individual flavours in order to lock them into our memory banks – not exactly a hardship, given our expectations beforehand.

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