Mâcon Uchizy, Meurgey-Croses 2023

As much a buyer of fruit as a grower of vines, Pierre Meurgey called 2023 brutal, particularly as towards the end of the growing season many red grapes were far from ready – until the heatwave settled in at the end of August. Harvest timings are always imprecise, and the requirement to have a team of helpers, whether professional or volunteer, at your disposal in a particular window just adds to the stress. Pierre gets around this with a mix of locals and some imported harvesting teams, and this year he decided that it was better to pay them to do nothing than to risk losing them to another domaine whilst they pushed back the date of harvest – such a hard call. Very happily, Pierre’s prices in the Mâconnais have gone down this year, making these wines an even better buy than usual – and take advantage of these as he has made no 2024s in the Mâconnais at all.

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